Prime Video: The Science of Gardening

Prime Video: The Science of Gardening

The Science of Gardening

Season 1

When scientists examine home gardens and landscapes, one fact stands out: The leading cause of landscape failure is not disease and it’s not pests - it’s our own gardening practices. Create a beautiful and sustainable home garden guided by the newest information from applied plant physiology, biology, soils science, climatology, hydrology, chemistry, and ecology.

2020

24 episodes

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Documentary

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

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S1 E1 - Garden Science: Weeding Out the Myths

June 1, 2020

25min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

How many of your horticultural practices are based on anecdotal evidence from your neighbor or grandmother, and how do you assess their validity? In the midst of an unregulated "Wild West" of gardening products and practices, you can learn to access science-based information to create your sustainable dream garden.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E2 - Site Analysis: Choosing the Right Spot

June 1, 2020

27min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Many of us make our landscape choices based on plant aesthetics. Instead, learn to first identify your location's topography, prevailing winds, hydrology, soil type, and other environmental factors. Then you'll be able to choose a plant well-suited for the long term. And you'll avoid season after season of frustration.

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S1 E3 - Soil Analysis: What Makes Soil Great?

June 1, 2020

30min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Unless you live in a completely undeveloped area, chances are your home garden soil is not native. Learn what makes a "great" soil and how to determine your own approximate amounts of clay, silt, and sand; texture; nutrients; pH; and more - before you purchase that "must have" soil addition from the gardening store.

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S1 E4 - Living Soils: Bacteria and Fungi

June 1, 2020

29min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Just as humans cannot grow without our supportive microbiome, neither can plants. Plant roots, bacterial sheathes, and long filaments of fungus all function together to support the plant's growth, enhancing the uptake of water and nutrients and improving soil structure. But what happens to this crucial symbiosis when you add unnecessary fertilizers?

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S1 E5 - Plant Selection: Natives versus Non-Natives

June 1, 2020

30min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Native plants are always a better home-garden choice than non-natives, right? We know they are best suited to thrive in the soils and ecosystems of the area, and will create the best wildlife habitat. But does garden science support those "truths"? You might be surprised to learn how introduced species can enhance your garden and landscape biodiversity.

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S1 E6 - Plant Selection: Function and Form

June 1, 2020

35min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

In addition to its aesthetic value, your landscaping can provide privacy, protect soils from erosion, moderate temperature, manage storm-water runoff, provide wildlife habitat, and more. Learn how to select the appropriate plants with respect to morphology, growth rates, and physiology to help achieve your specific goals for various locations on your property.

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S1 E7 - Plant Selection: Finding Quality Specimens

June 1, 2020

28min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Half the battle of successful landscaping is starting with the healthiest specimens - not, as we sometimes prefer, the largest. Learn how to inspect nursery plants from the crown to the ground for evidence of quality and health, and how to estimate root health by checking for suckers on single-trunk trees, root flare, surface roots, and the "tippy test."

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S1 E8 - Soil Preparation and Protection

June 1, 2020

24min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

"Don't plant before you fertilize!" Chances are you've heard that admonishment more than once. But gardening science has revealed that many popular practices - including fertilizing every time you plant - are neither necessary nor sustainable. Learn about a more natural way to add organic material to your garden to protect soil structure and nourish your plants.

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S1 E9 - The Truth about Mulch

June 1, 2020

30min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Learn about the wide variety of mulch types - from glass to wood to compost - and the science-based pros and cons of each. By considering your specific site conditions and personal aesthetics, you can blend a variety of mulches to transform a struggling landscape into one that's healthier and more sustainable.

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S1 E10 - Planting for Survival

June 1, 2020

37min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Current research supports the need to radically change the way we've been planting trees for the past half century. Although considered controversial by nursery professionals, learn why plant science supports the "old" method of bare-root planting. This technique can improve tree survival because a vigorous root system will better support a healthy crown.

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S1 E11 - Aftercare for New Plants

June 1, 2020

29min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Once your new plant is in the ground, how should you take care of it? Learn the basics of watering, mulching, fertilizing, staking, and pruning newly transplanted trees or shrubs - and why this care might change in subsequent seasons when the plant is well established. Not sure if your newly planted tree is experiencing healthy root growth? Try the wiggle test.

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S1 E12 - Plant Nutrition: Evidence-Based Fertilizing

June 1, 2020

30min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

The goal of fertilizing is to match your soil and plant needs - micro- and macronutrients, and other chemical requirements - with the appropriate sources of nutrition. By understanding your specific soil test results, you can determine which nutrients are deficient, which might already be present in toxic quantities, and whether or not to buy organic.

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S1 E13 - The Art and Science of Pruning

June 1, 2020

31min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Have you ever seen a tree cut painted with tar or another sealant? Or seen a crown chopped completely bare? Both are common practices that we now know are harmful to the plant. Using applied plant physiology and science-based guidelines, learn the best timing and methods for pruning that will lead to healthy tree growth for the long term.

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S1 E14 - Creating Safe Food Gardens

June 1, 2020

30min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

While it seems intuitive that vegetables grown in your home garden will be safer and healthier than those purchased at the supermarket, that could be a dangerous assumption. Does your garden soil contain elements of concern, especially cadmium or lead? If so, learn how to best respond - whether in plant choices or creative garden design.

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S1 E15 - Water-Wise Landscaping

June 1, 2020

30min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Learn how to reduce water use and protect water quality using knowledge of plant biochemistry, transpiration, and photosynthesis. Designing garden modifications, choosing appropriate plants based on morphology and color, and incorporating shading and mulch to reduce evaporation are just some of the water-wise techniques that will help conserve water.

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S1 E16 - Diagnosing Diseases and Disasters

June 1, 2020

31min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

The most common cause of death for home garden plants is poor horticultural practices, not disease or pests. With this step-by-step guide to diagnosing plant problems, you'll learn how to appropriately remedy any problem - and when the plant will heal on its own. You'll also be able to identify the warning signs of future problems, so you can treat the issue before it's too late.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E17 - Gardening CSI: Case Studies

June 1, 2020

27min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Take a virtual field trip to see examples of unhealthy plants and learn how to diagnose their problems based on the science of plant physiology. You'll see tree girdling, plants that become smaller instead of larger, scorched shrubs, and more. Once you understand the physiology behind these problems, you'll be better able to diagnose and treat any of your garden's plants that might be failing.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E18 - Integrated Pest Management

June 1, 2020

28min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

There is no lack of chemicals to get rid of the pests in your garden - whether that pest is a plant, insect, or other organism. But for long-term health, integrated pest management provides a better, systematic, science-based approach with a minimum of chemical inputs.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E19 - Understanding Pesticides

June 1, 2020

33min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Yes, there can be an appropriate time for judicious use of chemical pesticides in your garden. Learn why you should always stick with those approved by the EPA and your state department of agriculture, and never use the home remedies promoted on the Internet or in non-science-based books. Are organics always safer ecologically than synthetics? You'll be surprised.

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S1 E20 - What to Do about Weeds

June 1, 2020

29min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

If you have a garden in the U.S., chances are you're familiar with the damage caused by English ivy, kudzu, purple loosestrife, and/or the tamarisk tree. Each of these hardy plants can quickly create a monoculture, driving out other plant species and limiting the availability of diverse animal habitat. Learn the best science-based mechanisms to control these plants.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E21 - What to Do about Insects

June 1, 2020

33min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Before you resort to chemical sprays - which can kill all insects, not just the pests you're targeting - learn how to manage insects by increasing plant diversity, establishing "trap" plants, and using repellents and tools including your basic garden hose. Understanding the life cycle and reproductive physiology of the insect will help you make the most effective management choices.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E22 - What to Do about Herbivores

June 1, 2020

28min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

You could spend a lot of money trying to keep slugs, rats, moles, rabbits, squirrels, deer, and other herbivores out of your garden. But most of those purchases would have little, if any, value, especially if feeding pressure is high in the surrounding habitat. Learn about the few options that are both safe and effective. And remember, "man's best friend" might be your garden's best friend, too.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E23 - Tackling Garden Myths and Misinformation

June 1, 2020

29min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

If you can't trust the Internet home remedy or the local gardening salesperson, whom can you trust? Make science-based gardening decisions by assessing the credibility, relevance, accuracy, and purpose of the information you read. Learn the role played by peer review, the crucial difference between correlation and causation, and how to watch out for over-extrapolation and misapplied science.

Included with your The Great Courses Signature Collection subscription

S1 E24 - Applied Garden Science: Success Stories

June 1, 2020

40min

PG (Parental Guidance Suggested)

Two specific transformation stories - a wetlands restoration and a home garden project - reflect the benefit of science-based planning by considering soils, temperature, sunlight, moisture, water table, and likely pests. Learn how to become a citizen scientist and contribute to the field by asking the hard questions and knowing how to assess the strength of the answers.

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How to Grow Bok Choy - The Woks of Life

How to Grow Bok Choy - The Woks of Life

HOW TO SOW BOK CHOY SEEDS

You have two choices when it comes to sowing your bok choy seeds: direct sowing, and starting the seeds indoors followed by transplanting them into the ground. 

There are some pros and cons to each approach. Let’s talk about them! 

DIRECT SOWING:

The advantage of this method is that it’s a bit easier, in that you don’t need seed trays or a greenhouse/grow lights to start growing bok choy. You can just put the seeds into the ground and watch the plants grow! 

You’re also seeding the vegetables directly into the soil they will continue growing in, avoiding the “transplant shock” of moving a seedling from a plug or tray into the soil. 

The disadvantage here is that if you have “heavy weed and pest pressure,” as Christina calls it, your small seedlings can get outcompeted or eaten before they have a chance to grow. 

Direct sowing is ideal for containers, or if your garden beds are relatively weed and pest-free. 

How To Direct Sow Bok Choy

1. Sow seeds about ¼ to ½ inch (about 1cm) deep, every 2 to 3 inches (5-7cm) in rows 6 inches (15cm) apart. Water (best to use a fine sprinkle rather than a strong jet or glug of water that may wash away the seeds), and wait for them to germinate.
2. Christina suggests that after the seedlings reach about 1 to 2 inches (about 3-5cm) in height, you can thin them out to one seedling every 6 inches/15cm.

THINNING LATER?

We ended up letting our bok choy plants get a bit larger than that before thinning them out. They were about 5 to 6 inches (13-15cm) tall.

While the individual bok choy stems were not quite as robust as they could’ve been, the advantage of this was that we were able to harvest good size baby bok choy as we thinned, accomplishing two things at once: thinning and dining!

STARTING SEEDS INDOORS & TRANSPLANTING:

The advantage of this method is that you can grow young seedlings in a protected area before transplanting them outside. This allows the plants to establish, which will make them more resistant to weeds and pests. 

You can also start your seeds earlier, since they’ll be in a protected area in their first few weeks. This can help you extend your harvest if you’re sowing them in succession. 

It can also ensure that you are able to transplant your bok choy outside when temperatures are still relatively cool (but when all danger of frost has passed!).

How To Start Seeds Indoors And Then Transplant Them Outside: 

Start seeds indoors about 2-3 weeks before planting outside. 

1. In a seed tray with a couple inches (5cm) of depth, sow seeds a couple inches apart, about ¼ inch to ½ inch (about 1 cm) deep. A good rule of thumb for most seeds is sowing them about as deep as 2x the width of the seed itself. You can use a sterile seed starting mix, garden compost, or a good peat-free organic potting soil. Cover them lightly, water them, and place on a warm windowsill or heated mat to germinate. (We found the heat mat expedites the process considerably.) For even faster results, cover the seed trays with a plastic bag or clear plastic lid (recycled plastic salad boxes work great for this purpose). This keeps the air humid, which encourages germination. Water as needed. The trays should remain moist but not sodden.
2. Once the seedlings begin to emerge, remove any plastic lids and place in a very well-lit, well-ventilated, and ideally somewhat cool area. They need a lot of light at this stage, or may grow “leggy.” This happens when the seedlings reach for light, resulting in weak, spindly growth. We recommend investing in grow lights for the best results. (We did not use grow lights for our seedlings this year, instead using a very sunny windowsill, and regretted this decision.) Of course, if you have a greenhouse, that would be perfect. If not (most of us don’t have this luxury!), a cool basement with grow lights and an open window or oscillating fan running a good distance away is an ideal indoor makeshift “greenhouse.” 
3. The first leaves to emerge are known as the “seed leaves” or “cotyledons.” These leaves collect the energy needed to produce the next set of leaves, which are known as “true leaves.” When the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted outside. Before doing that, however, it’s a good idea to harden off the plants. “Hardening off” a plant is a process by which you create a transition between its indoor and outdoor environment. You keep the seedlings in the plugs and trays they’re in, but put them in a relatively protected outdoor location to allow them to acclimate to the elements (sun, wind, and rain) before transplanting. You can harden them off for a few days, or up to a week, since bok choy is so fast-growing. 
4. Carefully tease out each seedling, keeping as much of its root ball intact as possible, and plant them in the ground 6 inches (15 cm) apart. Water in well. 

Here’s a photo of a more mature bok choy plant next to a young seedling with only its seed leaves. Photo Credit: Choy Division

WHY PEAT-FREE?

You may be wondering why I mentioned “peat-free” potting soil above, when so many garden products, from potting soil to biodegradable plant pots, are made with peat. Peatlands store a third of the world’s soil carbon. When peat is harvested, it releases huge amounts of stored carbon dioxide into the atmosphere! Plus, it grows back extremely slowly—about 1mm per year. If you can find a peat-free option, definitely go with it. Or even better—try making your own garden compost!

We’re in the midst of our composting journey, and while we’re not experts at it yet, we will definitely share our findings here on the blog.

HARVESTING BOK CHOY

Bok choy is edible at all stages. You can harvest any medium or large variety early for baby bok choy.

Some bok choy varieties are grown to a small mature size, like dwarf bok choy. This type of bok choy will not continue to grow past a certain size, and should be harvested when it reaches the number of days to maturity indicated on your seed packet. 

Usually, the whole head is harvested by cutting at the base of the plant. It is also possible to harvest individual outer stems, which will allow the center point of the plant to keep growing.

It’s best to harvest bok choy as you cook and eat them for optimal freshness. Otherwise, you can store it unwashed in a reusable bag or sealable container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

If a flower bud has started to form that looks like broccoli, that is the start of bolting (see the next section).

It is still tender and tasty at this point, but once the flower bud extends upwards and begins to flower, the plant becomes tough. It will then set seed, so it’s best to harvest it sooner than later!

PROBLEMS YOU MAY ENCOUNTER & HOW TO AVOID/MANAGE THEM

Here are some common garden challenges you may have when it comes to growing bok choy, from premature bolting, to pests and weeds!

We have tips on how to deal with each, coming from both Christina’s professional advice and our own experience.

1. BOLTING

A random hot day of 90°F/32°C or higher can trigger your bok choy to bolt. “Bolting” is when the plant begins to flower prematurely and then sets seed. New leaf growth stops, and the plant dies after seeding. 

This bolted bok choy is past its prime! Photo credit: Choy Division

This is a defense mechanism for the plant. If it’s too hot, watered inconsistently, or experiences dramatic temperature swings, the plant gets stressed. It then directs its energy into flowering and creating seeds to reproduce.

This can happen to many different crops, including other leafy greens like lettuce and spinach, as well as some root vegetables like beets and onions.

Bok choy plants showing early signs of bolting. Photo credit: Choy Division

You may be tempted to plant your bok choy early in spring to take advantage of more consistently cool temperatures. However, these leafy greens also don’t like when temperatures dip too low (under 45-50°F/8-10°C). 

According to The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible, even if your bok choy plants survive a frost, they can bolt later on if exposed to frosty temperatures! 

Another idea is planting in succession, but while this is a good idea generally to help extend the harvest, young bok choy plants can bolt just like mature plants. 

A young bok choy plant bolting even when very small. See Christina’s doggo Momo for scale. Photo credit: Choy Division

That said, one thing you can do is start the bok choy indoors and then plant them out when all danger of frost has passed, but temperatures are still cool.

Our bok choy did eventually bolt after a very hot day:

How to Deal with It:

The best defense against bolting is looking at the number of days to maturity for your particular variety—say, 45 days—and choosing a stretch of that time where temperatures are most likely to stick between 50°F and 80°F (10° to 27°C). 

You can also look for bok choy varieties that are more tolerant to heat than others. If this is the case, it will usually say so on the seed packet.

If you live in an area where random hot days are common in spring (we certainly do, and this is increasingly the case due to climate change!), definitely try to find one of these varieties. 

Another piece of advice from Christina? Begin harvesting early. You don’t have to wait for the entire plant to mature to harvest the larger outer leaves. As soon as you see signs of bolting, harvest the entire plant and use the smaller leaves in salads or delicate soups. 

Says Christina, “According to several excellent cooks I know, flowering bok choy isn’t the disaster some gardeners think. They claim that the flower stalks are tender and sweet and make a great addition to stir-fry and salads.”

We agree! As soon as your bok choy shows signs of bolting, harvest it and eat it! 

Bok choy that has bolted but is still good to eat. Photo credit: Choy Division

2. PESTS 

Another problem you may encounter with these tender leafy greens is pest damage.

Common pests around bok choy include flea beetles and the cabbage moth. We’ve also had run-ins with slugs on our very wet property! Let’s go into each of these in more detail: 

Flea Beetles: According to Christina, this pest is absolutely the reason why some crops are so heavily sprayed! It is the most prevalent, and affects all brassicas, not just bok choy. This small, shiny insect mimics the jumping motion of fleas, which is how it got its name. 

Your bok choy plants are plagued by this particular pest if you see tiny holes in the leaves that look like miniature buckshot. 

The good news is that the damage is mostly cosmetic, with no effect on flavor or texture. However, if left unmanaged, it can stress the plant, slow down growth, or “skeletonize” the plant’s leaves, causing irrevocable damage. 

Here in the Northeast, these are an early spring and late summer/fall pest. Of course, this coincides directly with the bok choy growing season! You won’t see as many of them in the fall as in spring.

Cabbage Moth: When this particular insect is in its caterpillar stage, it will eat through bok choy leaves and leave behind dark green droppings that look like small pellets. 

You’ll know you have them if you see the caterpillars on the leaves, those pelleted droppings, or the adult moths flying around the garden. In the Northeast, these are a late summer/fall pest. 

Slugs: Slugs enjoy eating the young, tender leaves of all cruciferous vegetables, including bok choy (as we’re increasingly finding out, napa cabbage is one of their favorite foods, but more on that later).

They are especially common in damp areas, particularly cultivated areas like backyards, meadows, and fields. They also like damp cardboard and rotting wood, which provide a comfortable habitat. 

Slug damage on leaves is pretty obvious. You’ll see irregular chunks taken out of the leaves that look like big ragged holes. 

Pest damage on some of our bok choy plants.

How to Deal with Them:

When it comes to jumping and flying insects like the flea beetle and cabbage moth, physical barriers are the best way to manage them. 

Christina uses garden row covers, also known as floating row covers. These are made of a thin, woven white fabric that allows light, air, and water to pass through. This fabric also traps in heat. 

Photo credit: Choy Division

If you live in a warmer climate, Christina recommends looking into ProtekNet. It’s an insect netting that does not trap any heat. 

You could also try companion planting. Strong-smelling herbs and other crops like like thyme, dill, oregano, lavender, onions, garlic, and marigolds can deter cabbage moths or perhaps help make your tasty brassicas less obvious to the pesky flea beetle.

Some people also plant a “trap crop” (about 8-12 feet away from your vegetables) that lures the pests away to feed on it instead, like nasturtiums, which are also edible. We’ve never tried this method, but found it in our research!

For flea beetles, you can also attempt to time your planting around their emergence and subsequent flight. This would require doing some research and getting to know local agriculture experts (Cornell Cooperative Extension is helpful!)

When it comes to slugs, which are basically snails without shells and move along the ground, you can use other physical barriers to deter them.

For one, you could try prickly things. We have personally taken this approach with the spiky balls from the sweet gum tree on our property, which we placed in a border around some of our more vulnerable beds.  Other materials include sharp sand and crushed egg shells). 

You can also try copper tape (it’s supposed to create a chemical reaction that deters them). There are also wildlife-safe and pet-safe slug repellents like Sluggo. It has been approved for organic use, though we haven’t personally tried it. 

One way to prevent slugs from reaching your vegetables is to plant them in raised beds or containers. Just know that if your raised beds are made of old or rotting wood, those can be very good slug hiding places! 

We have found that the bok choy in the raised beds had much less pest damage in general than vegetables up in the large garden. Our napa cabbage in the big garden is having major slug issues, which we’re dealing with as we speak! 

With cabbage moth caterpillars and slugs, physical removal of them can also help. Ideally, though, you want to prevent them from getting onto your vegetables at all. 

3. WEEDS

We all know what weeds are! They can grow in our vegetable beds, competing with our crops.

Look at all these weeds! We’d composted hay from the animals earlier in the year, and the compost piles hadn’t gotten hot enough to kill off the grass/weed seeds in it! Lesson learned.

How to deal with them: 

Hand-pulling weeds, or using a small fork or hoe to cut the weeds back at their roots can help damage or—in the case of hand-pulling—fully remove them. If weeding by hand, try your best to remove the entire root system to prevent regrowth. 

It’s easiest to pull weeds when they’re small. You can also suppress weeds early (before the growing season begins) by adding a thick (at least 3-inch/7-8cm) layer of organic compost as a mulch. This prevents light from getting to the young emerging weeds, and also amends the soil. 

We had quite a few (errr…a TON of) weeds in our bed of bok choy. I spent a good hour or so hand-pulling all of them when they were tiny, and we’ve just been keeping on top of it! 

The silver lining with weeds is, if you have a lot of them, it means your soil is fertile!

Here’s the same bed, after I weeded! Ahhhhhh…

OUR HARVEST

Ok, so now that we’ve dropped all that knowledge, I bet many of you are wondering how we did in our bok choy growing!

As mentioned earlier, we direct seeded our bok choy into the raised beds in the kitchen garden by the barn. These were some of the first beds we prepared earlier in spring.

We waited a while to thin them. By the time we got to it, most of the plants were already a decent eating size. So we basically harvested and thinned at the same time!

We figured we would harvest half of the plants as baby bok choy. Then we’d wait for the remainder to grow bigger with the extra space.

We harvested enough for a couple of meals!

Our first harvest dinner was a simple noodle soup, which we always like to add leafy greens to. It was a tasty reward to try our first fresh veggies from the garden!

Then on the Tuesday after Memorial Day, we had an extremely hot 93°F (34°C) day, and while we’d watered our bok choy the evening before, much of it bolted. At that point, it was time to harvest the rest and enjoy it!

BOK CHOY ORIGINS & MIGRATION

Let’s talk a little bit more about the history of this staple on our dinner table. Nicole Yeo, part of the Choy Division team, helped gather some interesting facts about bok choy!

Bok choy can be traced back to China’s fertile Yangtze River region and has been cultivated for thousands of years.

In fact, archaeologists have found Chinese cabbage seeds in river valleys dating back at least 6,000 years. Examples of modern bok choy have been dated to 3,500 years ago. Its beautiful green and white colors have even made it a frequent subject for jade carvers!

Over the centuries, this vegetable traveled to other parts of Asia. It eventually came to Europe and North America in the 19th century with Chinese immigrants.

Its history in the United States is closely linked with Chinese immigration to California in the 1800s, as Chinese farm labor increased in the state through the late 19th century.

While many traditional Chinese ingredients didn’t grow as well in America, bok choy was hardy enough to grow in this new land. Eventually, bok choy came to be one of the most accessible and well-known Chinese vegetables in Western countries.

It has worked its way into many cuisines around the world through Chinese immigration. Take the Caribbean for instance. “Pak choi” or “joy choy” is available on menus and markets in Trinidad, Guyana, Jamaica, and Cuba. Notably, Jamaicans know bok choy as “pop chow.”

The term “bok choy” that we use in English is actually a romanization of the Cantonese word for this vegetable.

This is due to the fact that most early immigrants to the U.S. were from Canton/Guangdong province in Southern China. Other common spellings are: bok choi or pak choi.

CONCLUSION

We hope this post on how to grow bok choy was helpful and will be a useful reference for you later this year and in future growing seasons. Perhaps we’ve inspired you to plant some bok choy later this summer for harvest in fall!

We’d like to thank Christina and her team at Choy Division for embarking on this collaborative series with us, and for sharing their knowledge with our readers.

Check out the Choy Division website to learn more about their mission to grow East Asian heritage crops and expand food diversity and access across New York City! 

For more information on how we use bok choy and a list of recipes you can try, check out our Ingredients Glossary post, Bok Choy: Different Types and How to Cook It.

We have four more posts in this series coming up. In July, we’ll be talking about Napa Cabbage! Then we’ll move on to Chinese eggplant, peppers, and garlic chives. 

Any lingering questions? Feedback on the post? Stories or tips of your own to share? Let us know in the comments below!